From the ‘Temple of Artemis’ to ‘A Rose for Lilly’

Abandoned buildings scare everyone
Their carriage reminds of the brutality of loneliness
They stand there as women of a certain age
…women whose eyes have gone out of light;
whose fertility was taken from their body.
Abandoned buildings; like exhausted and sallow women

The sanctuary instinct of humans goes back to the dark corridors of existence. Not only for the sake of sheltering do humans build, but to reveal the mystery of immortality. Despite our tendency to destroy, we – ironically – also know how to revive deserted spaces. The human race, confronting the spectacular temples that were constructed ages ago, marvels at its own capacity, doesn’t it? As an Izmirian, as somebody living in a 8500-year-old city on the west coast of Anatolia, right in the middle of the heritage of – what we call – civilizations, it is easy to say “yes”.

For me, what is “splendid” is EphesusPergamon – the most prestigious venues of the International Izmir Festival –, SardisMetropolisAphrodisias or Claros. Existing for thousands of years, these ancient cities carry with them the stories of those whose hands shaped the beauty. In the shadows of those monuments, among the embalmed souls of countless anonymous people who perhaps died during the construction, we, today, look for – what? Re-functionalising? Punk-cultural squatting? The contradictory bonds humans can establish between themselves and different spaces and rooms amazes me. Buildings need to be filled by people to survive, to exist, to become a living space. It perfectly works! My experience at the Izmir festival has allowed me to discover audience’s expectations, satisfactions, experiences and awareness through the events at unique historical venues. There must be some secret ways beyond all the nestled needs; mingling the art and the time – past, present and future.

What about us – the human of modern times? We don’t have enough time even for ourselves, while time runs a marathon. Do we continue to build glorious temples and dedicate them to our own greatness? Do the temples of today serve similar or another purpose? My visit of the Walt Disney Concert Hall, the legendary hall of Los Angeles Philharmonic, filled my head with thoughts.

When you hang out midtown it is impossible to miss the gleaming Walt Disney Concert Hall. An icon of LA with its undulating curves, an architectural wonder of stainless steel, this masterpiece by Frank Gehry on the top of all has an auditorium with miraculous acoustics. When I saw the Dancing House in Prague for the first time – also a creation by Gehry – I was impressed by the bold thought: dancing must be the only way for a building to exist as a part of the fairy-tale façade of Prague. As for the Walt Disney Concert Hall, I felt a different kind of attraction. The building irresistibly invites you to explore what lies behind those dazzling steels. I must confess that there is something very charming about the feminine shape of the complex, proving what Paul Silvia, an assistant professor of psychology, says: “Curved and rounded objects are so much more familiar that they seem more natural and ‘right’.”

For those who can’t refuse the invitation and go for the insider point of view, free, self-guided audio tours or docent-led tours are offered. To see the Gehry designed serene garden and giant rose-shaped fountain is a must. ‘A Rose for Lilly’ is dedicated to Lillian Disney whose initial gift of 50 million dollars made the hall possible. That rose reminded me of one of the seven wonders of the ancient world: the Temple of Artemis in Ephesus. It seems we will continue to build and dedicate.

Here, let me digress to bring in conductor laureate Esa-Pekka Salonen’s impression of the building. Salonen composed Wing on Wing to celebrate the Walt Disney Concert Hall’s opening. Stating in his notes that the composition is “an homage to an extraordinary building by an extraordinary man,” Salonen says: “Apart from being an architectural masterpiece, the Walt Disney Concert Hall is simply one of the best performing venues for classical music anywhere in the world today. Its acoustics are superb and perhaps most importantly, the whole building exudes joy, excitement and discovery – attributes regrettably seldom attached to symphonic music these days.”

To experience the marvelous acoustic of the hall you must attend a concert; the concert hall itself is not open for tours. I attended one, and can assure you will experience the purest sound a man-made-space can provide. The hardwood-lined auditorium with its incredible pipe organ, perhaps thanks to Gehry’s genius, embraces the audience and creates a spontaneous well-being. I had the pleasure to listen to the superb interpretation by Emanuel Ax of Brahms’ first piano concerto with LA Phil under the baton of Robin Ticciati. LA Phil is to be congratulated not only for this concert, but for the tempting programme of the whole season. The Walt Disney Concert Hall, one of the architectural wonders of modern time, celebrates the 10th anniversary of its opening and features a rich programme of world music, popular song, and jazz. Congratulations!


Ceyda Berk-Söderblom